Tag Archives: old projects

Light Box Soldering Part II

I’m picking up where I left off from my last post about this lightbox.  If you missed that post, you can read it here.

So I’m pretty happy with the way this wire has been integrated into the edges of this lamp box.  The wire was easy to form around the edges and corners, and helped me fill in some pretty big gaps.  I just basically continued from where I left off, bending the wire to wrap around the top edge and then back down the side, and spot soldering as I went along.

Once I had all four wires soldered into place, I was left with four stubby ends sticking out the bottom edge.  I’m going to leave them for now, until I add another piece of wire to the bottom edge, or figure out what my lamp base is going to be and how I’m going to attach everything.

Wire sticking out the bottom edge

I was reading some interesting techniques on the website of I.Tashiro, an incredible stained glass artist from Japan.  (You really should check out more of his work and techniques on his website — so informational and so beautiful!)  I’m not sure how this light box will be finished, but I might just build a wooden box for it to sit in and try out the brass sheet base technique on another project later…

Moving on from there, I went back to add some finish solder along the edges and along the inside corners.  Filling in the inside corners added some backing to the outside finished edges, so that the solder didn’t just drip through.

Soldering the inside edge

Everything worked out fairly well — I really only had trouble in two areas: the first was on the panel that I left the old copper foil on.  I had one joint where the solder just would not adhere to the copper foil, so there is a small gap between the corner solder bead and where two pieces of glass in the panel all meet.  Overall not a big deal, but I need to check if any light shines through.  The second was was adding a finish solder bead to the joint with the widest gap.  Even with a wire reinforcement on the inside, the solder still melted through very easily and dripped out, or cooled too rapidly (I think?) and I ended up with a weird texture on the surface of the solder, instead of it looking smooth and shiny.  If anyone has any tips for avoiding this issue (other than to just get better at sizing panels to fit together with less crazy gaps, clearly…), please post them below!  I ended up using an old orange box as a make-shift prop to keep the edges level and the solder bead sitting in the centre of the corner.

Using an orange box as a prop

Overall, I think the solder worked out ok.  I am still going to add a piece of wire along the bottom edge, and I’ll try another attempt at touching up the bad texture solder joint.  I don’t think this is my finest solder work, but I think I’m having some issues with my soldering iron set-up, so I’ll play around with that as well.  However, the point of finishing my older project before taking on anything new is kind of two-fold for me: to get projects that I started three years ago finished and out of the way, and to serve as a set of practice projects before I start attempting to make items of saleable quality.  So I can just chalk this one up to practice, at the very least.  At the most/best, I will have a new light box that I can take to work, use at home or gift to someone, and that’s not too shabby!

Finished soldered edges and corner

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Panels Re-Do

*le sigh*

I started working on a couple of lamp panels several years ago (I think it is three years ago, although I am ashamed to admit that was the last time I had studio space set up…) and I recently pulled them out again to finish them as part of my goal to complete old projects before working on new ones…  Sadly, the copper foil oxidized and soldering the pieces together (over the old solder and bad copper foil) was just not going very well.

Oxidized copper foil

I decided I would pull all the old copper foil off, replace it with new foil and just start over.  {You can see the process for how I did this in my post on fixing up the hummingbird sun-catcher.}  Removing the copper foil was time consuming and annoying, especially so with several components of textured glass, but in the end it made soldering everything much easier, cleaner and produced better results.

This is the solder result from the panel that I just worked on soldering over as-is.  There was not as much oxidization on the copper foil as on the panel in the picture above, and I figured I could probably make it work:

Bad solder...

These solder lines didn’t melt as smoothly on the fixed-up panels – and the finish on it is kind of grainy and dull, like it tarnished faster than the solder on the panels where I replaced the foil.  Here’s what those solder lines look like:

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Ok, so maybe my photos aren’t quite the best…  But you can kind of get the idea that this solder line is smoother, plumper and shinier.  The soldering process went much faster as well because the copper foil was new, and everything was just happy to stick together.  After my first attempt to solder the original copper foil panels, I figured something a bit more intensive would be required to get the solder to bond to the copper without totally starting over — so I scrubbed everything down (old solder, recent solder, copper foil, glass) with a bit of soap and steel wool to clean the existing materials and rough-up the copper for a better bond.  It works – I got the rest of the solder lines onto the panels without too much trouble.

Up next?  Finishing the top piece of this lamp box and connecting all the pieces together!

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A Little Fixer Up’er

I made a series of sun-catchers for family members one year, and this little hummingbird was one of them.  Sadly, he got squished and his wings fell off!  *sad face*  So as something I can do to finish a variety of projects I started (before moving on to new ones), I thought I would work on fixing up this sun-catcher with some improvements!  I talked about some of the steps I could take to fix this piece in an earlier post, and here they are in more detail and with pictures.

Step One:  Removing the broken wings.  Luckily the glass isn’t broken – the copper foil has just been pulled off the edges of the glass.  To remove the wings, I pulled them off with my hands, breaking the copper foil to remove them from the pieces.  {Just a note – use your judgement when doing this.  If it will pull other solder seams or otherwise make more trouble for you to fix, just melt everything off gently with the soldering iron.}  Then I melted the solder in the joint between the wing and body, using the soldering iron to push the remaining foil out of the way.

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Step Two:  Remove the old copper foil from both wing pieces.  I used a small exacto knife to help me scrape the copper foil off all edges of the wings.

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Step Three:  Cleaning the glass.  There is a sticky residue left over from the copper foil around the edges of the wing pieces.  To clean them, I put them into a sink of warm water with a small amount of dish soap.   I let the soak for a few minutes, then used an old rag to wipe off the sticky stuff on the edges of the glass.  Good as new and ready to be re-foiled and attached back on!

Sticky residue on edges of glass

Step Four: Re-apply copper foil.  I’m using a 1/4″ copper foil, partly because I’m out of 7/32″ and partly because I want there to be a solid border around these wing pieces.  Going to 3/16″ is not a great option for single pieces that will be attached by only a single solder joint.

Foiled wings

Step Five: Attaching the wings back onto the body.  I thought about why these wings came off in the first place, and a lot of it has to do with the fact that there isn’t a whole lot of structural connectivity between the body and the plane of the wing.  It was very easy for the wing to be bent upwards or downwards, and for the copper foil to pull away from the glass.  So I’m going to use some thin wire to help create more stability.  I’ve started incorporating wire supports into my work to add structural integrity and strength, so I think it’s not a bad idea here.  I’m going to bring a piece of wire from the middle line of the body across the front edge of the wing, and the same thing on the back – a piece of wire running from the middle seam of the body across the back edge of the wing.

Step Six: Soldering it all together.  This process takes some time, and it would be amazing if I had a third hand to keep it all together.  If you’re thinking about getting into stained glass, be prepared to constantly cut and burn your fingers.  The first step to make this process much easier was to apply a layer of solder on all edges of the wings separately before adding wire or attaching them to the body of the hummingbird.

I chose to solder the wire all the way around the wings, both because it created a more consistent line around the wings, and just adds strength, which is the point of this fix.  I spot-soldered the wire first and then went over it again to add a smooth edge.

The last steps in reattaching the wings were to attach the wire to the body joint, and then to cover it all with a heavy line of solder.  This is where the earlier step of applying a thin coat of solder all the way around the edges really helps out – the goal now is to create joints between the existing solder instead of trying to get into some really tight spaces with a soldering iron to get everything coated.

Step 7: Clean the piece and VOILA!  Good as new!

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How To: Make a Reverse Pattern From Pieces You Cut Out Three Years Ago

So, I think the title says it all…  I have a lot of glass from projects that I cut out years ago and put in containers (I honestly did think I would work on them much sooner than this!) with the intent to put them together into something beautiful!  Alas, I did not put any record of how the pieces were supposed to fit together into the container with them…  Most of these containers have been puzzled over and eventually just abandoned into the scrap pile to be used for other projects at some future date.  But I did find one envelope that had a few clues to help me put it back together!

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The envelope contained 17 pieces, and had the label “butterfly” on the outside.  So far, so good.  I know what I’m supposed to be piecing together.  With the contents of the envelope emptied, the real fun begins.  Moving the green and white pieces around brings back a memory of a butterfly pattern I made in 2007 (!!), so that is some help.  I have an idea of how it is supposed to fit.  And at last, another clue clicks!  Some of the pieces are numbered!  And one of them is labelled with a number 1.  A starting point!  From there, it becomes clear that there are some white pieces designed to be squiggly edges of wings, and some that fit next to the butterfly body.  The green pieces just fall into place in between – and once one wing is laid out, the next is just a mirror image!  I think I just got lucky…

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I grind up my pieces to get the fit just right, and clean and foil them up – ready to go!  But then I realize that I don’t have a pattern (thanks, love of getting rid of things I haven’t used in years + moving at least four times since I cut this glass), and it would be nice to replicate this butterfly for future projects, as it’s actually quite cute!  So I assemble the pieces in their full shape and trace an outline onto a piece of paper.

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The next step is to clear the pieces and then trace each piece individually.  I started with the body, because it’s clear where that one is supposed to go, and the rest of the pieces can be traced out based on their relative positions.  Next I moved outwards into the wings, tracing the basic edges of each piece, and lining up the next piece against the newly traced lines.

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Once I traced all the pieces, I had a basic outline of the butterfly and all the components of the wings.  To finish off the pattern, I traced it out with a thick sharpie marker, to connect all the lines and to make it easy to copy this pattern on the light table in the future.

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After that, time to finish the butterfly!  I have to say it’s not my best solder work, but it’s been three years and then some, so it’s not a bad start…  I have a rheostat on my soldering iron, and think the temperature may need some adjustment.  But that’s neither here nor there.  I finished my first project in three years!  Fly little butterfly!

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